Dodge City in the Alps

Walla Walla, WA
July 10, 2021

Throughput their lives, the Apollo astronauts had seen the moon. Throughout their mission, they were in constant contact with the earth. When they were in trouble, they could ask questions, and get help. 

But the Lewis and Clark Expedition had no idea where they were going or what they would encounter, and had no way to reach those they’d left behind. They were on their own.

By July of 1805, a silhouette of high mountains appeared on the distant horizon. These were unlike the soft peaks of the Blue Ridge. A mid-summer snow was visible on the majestic ridge line, which seemed to recede as the men paddled against the current, and the calendar. 

They knew they must cross the crest before winter. Failure would be fatal. Lewis went ahead to find a trail thru. As he did, he became the first American citizen to reach the source of the Missouri River, and the Continental Divide. 

And he was elated to do so…until he looked up. To the west was row upon row of ridge upon ridge. This would not be a one-day portage to the Northwest Passage. After centuries of speculation, Lewis (and the western world) had learned that such a thing didn’t exist. 

The expedition was in trouble. It was now mid-August, and snow was accumulating at higher elevations. Sacajawea…the young Shoshone woman who with her newborn baby joined the expedition at the Mandan Village…would accompany (and guide) the men to her native tribe, and to the horses they’d need to find salvation, and avert starvation.

After eleven days and almost a hundred seventy miles since entering the mountains, on the banks of the Clearwater river, not far from where we now sit, they were found by the Nez Perce.

The tribe debated whether to kill the strangers, and to take their beads, horses, guns, and grub. Had they done so, the Nez Perce would’ve been the richest tribe west of the Mississippi. It must’ve been quite a temptation, but they didn’t yield to it.

The expedition survived, left the Nez Perce, put their cutouts in the Clearwater, then the Snake. Finally, in mid-October, they reached the Columbia, which flowed thru the dry border of what are now eastern Oregon and Washington, not far from where I’m writing today. There they were assisted by various tribes, including the Yakimas…and Walla Wallas.

But it was the Shoshone who saved their lives, and the Nez Perce who had let them live. The Nez Perce spent a hundred centuries on the Columbia River Plateau. Lewis and Clark were the first white men they’d seen. They wouldn’t be the last.

Yesterday morning we made the two hour drive from Walla Walla, over the Blue Mountains, thru Hells Canyon, and into the valley of the Wallowa, a band of Nez Perce who once occupied the area. The setting and the scenery are stunning. We can understand why Nez Perce liked it so much, and fought the US government to keep it. 

Chief Joseph of the Wallowa led the fight. He and his band ultimately lost, and were removed from their large lands in Oregon to a much smaller reservation in Idaho. 

They resisted, went on the run and, in alliance with the Palouse tribe, battled the blue-coats in Indian Wars stretching across modern Montana as far as the Canadian border. They were cornered in the northern part of the territory. 

Rather than reunite Joseph with his people in Idaho, the US government bounced him around the Great Plains, from one fort or reservation to the next. He was ultimately shipped to the Colville Reservation in northeastern Washington, where he died a couple decades later.

As small consolation, this town we visited yesterday ultimately took Joseph’s name, and gave that of his Wallowa warriors to the beautiful lake it abuts.

A couple months ago, knowing we’d be making an overdue return to Walla Walla, I asked my local cousin for a few excursion ideas. 

We’ll spend the next two days, and all next weekend, in Walla Walla, so thought it might be nice to explore other nearby places while we’re in the area.

Last time we were here, we supplemented our stay with a trip to Coeur d’Alene, Idaho…to which I was tempted to return. But we instead thought we should try something new. Ashley suggested several places, all of which sounded great. 

One of them, however, looked particularly appealing, and is within a couple hours of Walla Walla. The trip is actually a series of separate drives, and is well worth it. 

From Walla Walla, we headed south, traversing the expansive grasslands and wheat fields of eastern Oregon, which pass into the heights of the nearby Blue Mountains. From the summit, we descended into Hell’s Canyon, and into view of the Wallowa range. 

At their base sits the town of Joseph, something like Dodge City, were it in the Swiss Alps. It’s a quaint old west town on the edge of nowhere, but with the requisite cafés, chocolate shops, and galleries. 

We grabbed brunch al fresco at the Old Town Café, then drove toward the lake to our true objective. At the base of Mt Howard, named for the man who helped clear the Wallowa from this land, we hopped a lift that took us fifteen minutes to the top. 

At over 8,000 feet, we were witness to unspeakable beauty. We hiked the peak for almost an hour, in the company of pocket gophers and the astounding profile of the Wallowa range. I hadn’t heard of this place before last week, and almost decided against the five-hour round trip, but am very glad we made it. 

We descended the mountain, and returned to town. After wandering the old streets and popping into a few more shops, we made the return trip to Walla Walla. This town is bustling, and has thrived in the wake of the last year. It was hopping when we were last here, but seems bigger…and busier…now. Restaurants are packed, wineries abound, and seating spills onto the street.

The newest tasting room opened this weekend, on Second just off Main. Ashley spent her day there yesterday pouring Vital wines and tending to the opening day crowd. We weren’t among them, deciding to spare our cousin by staying out of her way. We’ll stop by today instead.

Instead of imposing on our cousin yesterday at her office, we did so last night at her home. Brian prepared a delightful meal, washed down with wonderful wine, and served over charming conversation in their comfortable breezeway. 

I’m sorry the Nez Perce were cleared away. But I’m glad these people are here.

JD